I often pop in at Buitenverwachting to get an opinion on a wine from one of their winemakers or simply to say hi to old friend Lars Maack whose family has owned this magnificent property since 1980. However, it was over 6 years ago that I had lunch with Hermann Kirschbaum (who has been making wine at Buitenverwachting for nearly 20 years) and Lars for the back page story of the Wine Society July-August 2005 newsletter.

When the Buitenverwachting Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 was selected for the November-December 2011 Wine Society mix, I set up a lunch date with Brad Paton, who started as Hermann’s assistant in 2004. Brad had completed his studies at Geisenheim, Germany and gained valuable experience during the numerous harvests he worked in Europe and South Africa. When he was appointed at Buitenverwachting it was with a clear view to succeed Hermann when the latter reaches his retirement. At the time Lars explained it as follows:”A full understanding of this hugely diversified property requires years of experience and planning. I don’t want to be in a situation where a new winemaker takes over full responsibility and then requires a couple of years to get to connect with each individual vineyard site.”

At present Hermann and Brad share the responsibility of the cellar, with Brad taking charge of a newly established range of wines, consisting of a “Limited Vintage”. This allows Brad to make amazingly expressive wines, which reflect the unique character of a specific vintage. He has made four of these limited release wines and proof of the success of the concept is the Veritas Double Gold awarded to the “G” (a powerful Gewürztraminer).

During our lunch my impression of Brad as a team player was clearly reaffirmed. Even though very much his own man and capable of holding his own, I got the strong sense that like Hermann it’s more about the property than the individual. This explains his successful working relationship with both Lars and Hermann. Brad recognises that the key to Buitenverwachting’s success is a strong succession plan. An understanding of what’s taken place and what he’s working with on the property can only be gained through years of experience and this experience needs to be considered when making decisions which will affect the wines of the future.

With plans for Hermann to take more of a backseat sometime in the near future, Lars has assured the continuity of greatness by backing Brad as the next generation winemaker at this 1st Growth of the South African Winelands.

As expected the lunch was “Buitenverwachting” (beyond expectation!) and the backdrop of vineyards and mountains never fails to stun the senses. The service and attention to detail from the chef and his team make for a culinary experience as good as you can experience anywhere in the world. What a treat!!

WADE BALES

Updating...

I’ve been enjoying a week in the bush at the fantastic Kwa Maritane resort in the Pilanesberg Game Reserve. I actually acquired a week’s timeshare by default, but never the less have loved every minute of it!! To tell you the truth, my “little butterfly” Madison Paige Bales (aged 1 year and 3 months ) was conceived here two years ago.

The African Bush has its own special magic, especially in spring. The beautiful temperatures of 29 degrees plus are a welcome relief from wet Cape winters, even though this year we’ve had more sunshine than rain.

What I most enjoy are the perfect conditions for building the best possible braais. A cool ale while tending the fire, chased with a glass of refreshing white wine, before rounding the evening off with a serious glass of red to compliment a perfectly seared cut of red meat. Life in Africa couldn’t be better.

Back to the mind-blowing bottle of wine, a 2010 Vriesenhof Chardonnay which had my wife and I squabbling over who gets the last glass. A great wine shared with your favourite people in the perfect setting….now that’s life in harmony.

I wasn’t surprised by the wine’s beautiful balance, as it was made by one of the great legends of South African wine, Jan Boland Coetzee. At the ripe old age of 70, Jan still sports the physique of a 50-year-old, honed in his heyday as a Springbok flanker. He also embodies the passion and enthusiasm required to craft a classic Chardonnay, which bubbles over when he discusses fine French wine, and Burgundy in particular.

Jan may have an imposing physique and reputation – he started out at Kanonkop in 1968 and has 48 vintages under his belt – but his soul is that of a soft natured, humble and philosophical man of nature. In an interview, Jan quotes from a reading: “Nature creates, man only guides”, before
adding: “Nature creates, man only cares; the more you care for nature, the better the wine.”

South African wine is truly richer from having this man of the land gift us with his touch.